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BUILDING THE PERFECT LAUNDRY ROOM; STEP BY STEP GUIDE

December 28, 2018Sharewoodworking

Imagine walking into a house and the first thing you see are clothes everywhere; unfolded shirts and even dirty socks. How untidy and disorganized would the house be? Now imagine having a laundry room to sort, clean and fold your clothes, how convenient would it be? A laundry room is one of the most undervalued room in the house yet one of the most important. It brings sanity to an otherwise untidy house and makes laundry less of a chore. Are you looking to build the perfect laundry room? Worry not because here is a step by step guide for you! Get the right appliances and equipment and you are ready to go.

Step 1: ensure the plywood parts are cut into the right size

For this step, great results can be achieved with as much as a saw (circular) and a straight edge guide. Cutting the plywood into the right size ensures that the laundry room is articulate dimension wise and all you have to do is follow the cutting diagram and list to the latter. First, you use your circular saw to make straight cuts out of the plywood, measure the right size and make appropriate markings to show where to cut out. For approximate cutting, ensure you put the guide on the right size and line it up with marks and then clamp it. Try and run the circular saw along the guide’s fence and carefully make the cut.

Step 2: paint and finish all the wooden parts before assembling them

This step ensures a simpler and quick finish to the whole process. If you are thinking of building a contemporary version of your laundry room, all the wooden edges that are exposed should be covered or filled by applying veneer edge banding. For those thinking of painting the pedestal, they should use Zinsser ready patch to fill the grained edge or a similar substance. Ensure the filler is all dried up and holes and spots filled with a second coat. Sand the filler to give it a smooth finish and then roll on 2 coats of paint to the plywood. To trowel the filer on to the plywood edges, it is advisable to use a small and flexible knife.

Step 3: build a toe space frame

Once the paint is all dried up, you are now ready to assemble the shell. Begin by drilling 3/32 inches pilot holes on the back side and drive in 2 inch screws for connecting to the sides. Build a frame for the toe space from about four strips of two 3/4 inch wide plywood. If you are building a contemporary version, on the foreside of the pedestal, you should allow toe space of 2 inches. To include the toe space in you should cut the plywood strips to length and use 2 inch screws to join the parts. Set this frame in the appropriate place and use 1-1/4 inch screws to connect it with the sides.

Step 4: use faint pencil lines to mark the locations of drivers

Before installation of the bottom and top parts, it is important to mark the interior dividers position with faint pencil lines. This lines should be on the inside of the inside faces and should indicate the panel’s edges on both top and bottom. Flip the panels over and indicate a single line showing the dividers center. This line will serve as a guide for drilling the screw holes. Once done, you could wash off the markings or conceal them with paint.

Step 5: set the bottom and attach the top

Dimensions of the contemporary version are slightly different so it’s important to use the right dimensions. On the outside part of both the bottom and top, make faint marks indicating where the screws will be drilled. Place the bottom part on the frame, drill some pilot holes for screws and attach it using 2 inch screws. Ensure the top is aligned. To keep the top firmly in place, align it and hold it in place with screws to the back and sides.

Step 6: make sure the drivers are installed

Line up the two divers with faint pencil markings and secure them with screws by driving them though the bottom and top into the dividers. If you are building a contemporary version, this is where your journey ends!

Pro tip: when drilling the pilot holes, hold the plywood panels in place by tacking them together using finish nails.

Step 7: install the trims on the carcass’s ends by trimming them

Start with the stiles at the end and ensure that all the trim is 3/8 inch below the pedestal’s surface. To build a craftsman version, you should add trim boards that are inch thick to the carcass’s sides and front. All trim boards should be set 3/8 inches under the top of the surface to create a lip where the top nosing will be applied. This lip ensures that your dryer and washer don’t vibrate and fall off the edge. Glue and 1-1/4 inch brads should be used to secure the trim.

Step 8: nail and glue the nosing

The nosing’s edges could either be mitered or square joints used with the end grain that’s exposed simply filled and painted. The 1*2 nosing running along the pedestal’s front and the two sides should be cut and fit, with the corner’s ends being mitered. You should then nail and glue the nosing on to the trim’s top.

Step 9: add moldings

For this step, you can go with any moldings to suit your room’s style. Miter the molding’s ends and use 1 inch brad to attach them. You could also cope the new molding to perfectly compliment your existing one. If the baseboard is not compatible or you don’t fancy a built in look, you should skip this step and alternatively cut out a square end onto the baseboard. Once you are done with installation of moldings and trims, you should fill out the nail holes then sand it smooth once the filler is dry. It is advisable to brush a fresh coat of paint on top of the moldings and trim for a perfect finish.

Step 10: for finish, cope the new baseboard

This enhances a more built in look, enabling it to complement the existing base.

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